THIS IS NOT MY WRITE UP. I simply saved this for other people so DON'T contact me about the tools.
You will need the following parts/supplies as a minimum:
- Updated
5th gear Synchro.
- Shift
select spindle.
- Gasket
sealant (Permetex, Yamabond etc.)
- Transmission
oil
- Transmission
section of the shop manual as reference.
Here is what the two updated parts look like:
You also may need the following special tools:
- Medium
size External and internal snap ring pliers
- Custom
Bearing Pullers* or SST
- 100-150
ft.-lb Torque wrench
- Roll
pin punch
*I will loan out my custom pullers needed. You will have to
send me $20, the cost of the tools plus shipping and I will mail them out to
you. Preferably Payal. After you are done, mail them
back and when I receive them, I will refund the cost of the tools minus the
shipping. Please borrow the tools when you are ready to use them and do not
keep them for more than a week.
I think the shift select spindle makes a big difference. Highly recommended. Synchro and shift select spindle should
be less than $100. Also, the updated synchro is a different color. New one is a
bronze color while the old is more brass looking.
Okay ready?
- Stand
it upright on the bell housing.
- Make
sure it is in neutral and remove the shifter.
- The
shift select spindle can be installed on the extension housing at any
time. They are held on by 2-10mm head bolts.
- Loosen
the 14mm head bolts on the extension housing. Some will be tight due to
the sealant on the threads.
- Rotate
the extension housing and lift upwards. You may need to tap on it with a
rubber mallet.
- Using
a punch, remove the roll pins out of the shift. Note the orientation.
- Remove
the speedometer gear. There will be 2 snap rings on either side. Also
between the shaft and gear, is a “woodruff” key to prevent the gear from
rotating independently from the shaft.
- Using
a mallet tap the bearing housing upwards and remove it.
- The
transmission should look similar without the bearing housing. Note: The
rear main bearing rear C-washers, circlips and counter 5th gear
bolt have been removed in this picture.
- Remove
the snap ring, washer, and retaining ring holding the two C-washers
together. Also Remove the two C-washers and mark them as the rear.
- Remove
the rear main bearing using the long puller. Try to keep the puller
parallel with the shaft when tightening.
- Remove
the retaining washer holding the two c-washers. Also remove the two
C-washers and mark them as the front.
- Using
a punch again, uncrimp the tab on bolt holding the 5th
countergear. The bolt will rotate, so you will may
need to keep it from rotating. I used an air impact wrench, which did not
require me to hold the shaft. Remove the bolt.
- Using
the small puller, remove the counter bearing.
- Remove
the counter 5th gear.
- Using
a mallet tap the center housing upwards and remove it.
- Remove
the reverse idler gear and washer.
- Remove
front C-washers and retaining ring. Do not confuse them with the other C-washers.
- Remove
the thrust lock washer and steel ball. Do not loose the steel ball!
- Remove
5th gear and roller bearing.
- The
broken 5th gear synchro is now visible and can be removed.
- You
may want to replace the 5th gear clutch hub if it looks worn
like mine. The 5th gear clutch hub engages with the 5th
gear synchro.
- Align
and install 5th gear Synchro.
- Reassemble
in reverse.
- Use a
light coating of gasket sealant between the surfaces. Also make sure
counter 5th gear is torque to the appropriate range.
Hopefully this removes some
vagueness from the shop manual and you idea of the repair process. Good luck!